A few months ago, my jaws dropped when I saw that Forbes Magazine had selected Ahmedabad as the third fastest developing cities in the world! They are talking about my city, the city I have known and loved all my life. I have known it as a city that has many wonderful things to offer to its residents. From its' historic architecture and great food to its thriving business community and art and culture centers, it is one of the most hospitable cities I know. But to see it as the third fastest developing cities in the world was still out of my wildest imagination. Of course, during my many visits back to the city in last three decades, I have known that it is changing at a very fast pace. So I jogged my mind to remember all the changes that I have noticed since I became an NRI.
For the last 35 years, I have been travelling back to Ahmedabad every couple of years, and every time I land on its soil, I get impressed by the amount of change that has happened since my previous visit. These changes have been very interesting for me at a personal level, and I can see how they have shaped the new Ahmedabad we have today.
Today's Ahmedabad is on the move, on the road of development, progress, and accomplishments that is a matter of pride for every Gujarati.
But growing up, I knew a different Ahmedabad. It was the city of textile mills - over 60 of them. Most citizens woke up with the almost ritual quelling of the horn in any of these mills. Almost every resident was somehow connected with the textile trade either as a worker, weaver, cloth designer, or fabric color producer. The city was beaming with retail stores that sold all kinds of fabric. This was the city of Mahatma Gandhi and Sardar Patel. The city where the movement of non-violence took root and grew to touch the entire country and the world. This is the city of the Indian Institute of Management - a home to one of the best management schools and SEWA, a birthplace of self-employed women and microfinance. It was hard to say if the city of Ahmedabad, where I grew up, was a city with the atmosphere of a village, or was it a village with a large enough population to be a city. It was quiet, yet brimming with people, and felt like it was stuck somewhere between 18 and 19th centuries, oozing out strength and stability.
That is the Ahmedabad I left in 1976.
My first return after four years meant coming to a very familiar setting, which was soothing to the soul after being away in a totally unknown place and culture. Changes were going on, and it felt like the city was losing its soul. A lot of textile mills were closing or were on the verge of being closed, so it meant that a lot of the labor force was either out of work or was worried about losing their jobs. There was a sense of gloom that was settling on the city. It was also a sign of changes to come, but for me, it felt nice to know that I can always come back to what I have always known. How wrong was I! Actually, the soul of the city had been emerging, and its pulse was picking up at far ends. The city and the entire state of Gujarat have been on the move ever since!
Every visit since my first one has shown me how things have improved and changed in that part of India that was once so familiar to me. So here is a walk down those streets of Ahmedabad to see how they have developed. The first thing you notice as soon as you fly into Ahmedabad is its new, modern, and efficient airport, teaming with travelers. If you happen to visit the city by road, you are impressed by its highways, probably the first and most developed road system in the entire country. You may notice new businesses, colleges, and retail stores lined up as you travel in the city. A few years ago, I remember, travelling on highways by car was not considered safe or practical, and now it seems that the travel bug has taken over each citizen. Roads are busy at any time of the day or night. Gone are the days when highway travel was to be avoided if possible and should be taken only during daytime if you are safety-conscious. And every Gujarati is! The highways in Gujarat now rival those of developed nations.
One of the most noticeable yet unquantifiable changes I find is the enthusiasm and pride of its people. Young people are filled with hope and pride as they see that their future is brighter. There are thousands of opportunities for today's young that were missing when my generation came of age. The pride is also reflected in many of the city's landmarks. If you visit the new Kankaria now, you may be amazed at what a vision can create. Gone is the old Kankaria lake with street vendors, homeless people, and stray dogs roaming the periphery. Today, it is an attraction for families from all over the city to enjoy a beautiful light show, music, and water activities. Or attend the international kite festival in January and enjoy the crisp air filled with kites of every size and shape. Or visit the city during Navratri and savor the dance festival. Then there is the Riverfront project that has changed the face of Sabarmati River with the water of the Narmada swelling the river.
Yet despite all the growth and development, the city seems to have kept its soul intact. The new city and the old values are still living side-by-side. Go to any restaurant (now there are hundreds of them) at night and you will see large crowds of people, families with older grandparents and young children, groups of young students, and office friends mingling. If you were new to the city, you would think there is some festival going on, but it is possible that it is only a regular weeknight. Every Amdavadi is a food lover, and it shows on the streets, on the menus of the restaurants, and in the homes. The air is cleaner thanks to CNG fuel in every rickshaw. During many of my previous trips, the side effect of enjoying my time in India came with the price of losing my voice due to the air. A few years ago, I noticed that I was able to use my voice during my entire trip, and at first, I could not pinpoint the reason. Then slowly I realized that it is the lack of pollution in the air due to the new environment-friendly rickshaw fuel.
I know that it is just not the city of Ahmedabad, but the entire state is on the move. New and innovative industries have replaced the old textile mills and small businesses. Today, Gujarat boasts of progress in every field, from chemical and petrochemical industries to pharmaceutical and biotechnology to the auto industry and knowledge sector. All this progress is visible even to a tourist like me.
Of course, not all changes are for the better. Over my last several trips, I have noticed a slow but detectable move towards westernization in many forms. Having lived in the Western world for most of my life, I am acutely aware of the downside of the culture, definitely the glamorous aspects of westernization that are adopted in the East. Breaking family values, disregard for age-old healthy habits, including food habits, and a value system can bring devastating results. It is worrisome to me to see these values being thrown by the wayside and the glamor of the West being adopted with enthusiasm. I have to admit that these changes have continued to make my trips back home more pleasant. And, I am not the only one. I notice that our friends and family members who have been NRIs for many years are now enjoying their trips back home, and some of them are even considering moving back.
I hear Gujarat saying to all NRIs, “Welcome to Gujarat. The State is on the Move.”
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